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ANNE AND MYSELF WITH BROTHER DAVID AND JANE. PEDI, AGAIN. |
Symi to Nisyros to Tilos to Symi
September 2015
When I first heard a
Greek person say to me “More Syrians than tourists”, I laughed in
agreement at the pithy summing up of the kind of summer tourist season
he was having. Bit by bit during summer in the Greek islands of the
Dodecanese along the coast of Turkey I came to realise it wasn't such
an exaggeration. Most of the upward of 500,000 refugees crossing from
Turkey to Europe via Greece, did so north of us around Lesbos.
Hundreds still arrived while we were in Symi though. We tended to see
the calm orderly side of the crisis after the refugees had arrived or
were being processed in Greece. I'd queue with groups of young
Syrian men in the morning to buy spanakopita while others sat in
groups smoking and waiting.
Leaving the throngs of Syrians behind, we overnighted in Panormitis before leaving Symi, then with what little wind on the nose, we motored all the way to Palun, Nisyros, I think our biggest motor for the season. David and Jane saw the
sights of the volcano while Anne and I swam and carted extra water to
the pig that lives under the fig tree where we picked our figs. The
pig took a small drink but was more keen to tip the water out with
its snout and wallow in the cooling mud.
Before returning the
hire car we all explored the towns up on the rim of the caldera and
down on the main port of Mandraki. Nice little towns perched high on
winding roads with sensational views both in to the caldera and out
to sea. Lunches on board Fourth Dimension stepped up a notch with
David and Jane in charge. Jane's sumptuous salad and David's
marinated mushrooms became signature dishes during their stay.
A motor sail south from Nisyros in little wind got us to the small harbour of Livadhia on
Tilos. We hired another car to tour the island taking in several
beaches for swims and a very steep drive up to a mountain top. Well,
we got part of the way up. Slowly and steeply we crept up a narrow
but solid concrete road. At a certain point with the
precipitously steep drop off the side of the road becoming vertiginous, Anne said that was
enough and she was getting out. Jane joined in solidarity and there
wasn't much point pressing on. I can't blame them, I turned around
but it was an exhilarating little drive with great views. It may be just
as well we turned around, given the billiard ball smooth state of the
tyre tread we discovered later.
From Tilos we left
at dawn to sail back to Symi for David and Jane's ferry connection to
head home.
We had mixed winds
and even flew Big Purple. That didn't end well. Due to the captain's
inattention during a gust all that taut light purple fabric in the
air went all flappy and sustained a rip from the clew. Very
unprofessional. Oh well, some more work for Suleyman the sailmaker
back in Finike and another lesson for me.
We snugly tied
alongside a wharf in Pedi bay happy that we wouldn't have any anchor
dragging issues with the rising wind gusts. I'd just got to bed when
there was an awful wrenching noise. On deck in a flash, I was
expecting to see a boat had dragged into us, instead I found one
dinted solar panel lying on the quay having been torn from it's
corroded mount in a gust. It tested ok and was reinstalled the next
day. Lucky.
It was great having
my bro on board. We hadn't seen each other for a few years so the
reunion was that much more welcome. Thanks David for the pic of me
lolling about naked in the Aegean. That one won't make publication.
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BREAKING IN THE NEW CREW WITH PEDI SUNDOWNERS |
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SPECTACULAR ANCHORAGE SOUTH OF PEDI |
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SYMI |
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PANORMITIS CHURCH |
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WE STOPPED MID PASSAGE BUT FORGOT THE FISHING LINES. DAVID CUT THE LINES FROM THE PROP. |
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IT WAS TRICKY BUT SOMEONE HAD TO DO IT. |
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ANNE GETS THE STERN LINES READY |
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APPROACH TO NISYROS |
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ONCE EVERY TWENTY OR THIRTY YEARS YOU TRY SOME RETSINA. IT WAS OK! |
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ANNE CARTS WATER TO THE FIG PIG |
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SMART PIG TIPS THE BUCKET |
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AND WALLOWS |
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THERE IS GREAT BEER IN LIFE FOR THOSE WILLING TO TAKE THE JOURNEY |
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THE CRATER FROM NIKEA, NISYROS |
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WE WALKED UP WHEN EVERYONE ELSE DROVE |
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NIKEA |
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TURKEY FROM GREECE |
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THE CREW |
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DAVID |
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SHOULD LAST ANOTHER SEASON |
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MONASTERY ON TILOS |
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THE MONASTERY AND GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH OF SAINT PANTELEIMON |
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CAT RESCUE TEAM SAVES BLIND KITTEN THAT FELL IN THE HARBOUR |
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ANNE AND JANE WALK DOWN RATHER THAN DRIVE THANK YOU |
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SUNDOWNER |
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MISSING ONE SOLAR PANEL |
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ALAN FROM 'JALANO' HELPS WITH THE STEP LADDER I FOUND |
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REMOUNTING THE OTHER SOLAR PANEL |
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DAVID AND JANE LEAVE SYMI ON A PRE DAWN FERRY |