FROM THE KVARNER GULF REGION TO THE DALMATION COAST

TWO NIGHTS DODGING THE BORA

CHILLIN WITH THE CZECHS

 With the Bora behind us we head south to an anchorage which happens to be a 'naturpark' national park which means two charming gents in a fast boat relieve us of 200Kuna or $40 at sundown.

We over night there in a tranquil anchorage and head off reasonably early the next day for a 39 nautical mile motor/motor sail in calm weather to Rogoznica which puts us officially on the Dalmation Coast.

The Dalmation Coast is a different kettle of fish to the austere places we have just come from. It's the glamour, groovy, gorgeously picture skew, atmospheric part of Croatia you read about. We reversed in to the quay where the port office bloke helped with the ropes and charged us 26 Kuna a metre for mooring fees. A better rate than the bloke half an hour earlier who said 33 Kuna per metre.

Three tries and I get it right. We tie up and have a well earned first drink of the day. Bill breaks out the family sized two litre plastic beer bottle and we have time to consider how lovely it is here. Soon it's showers, a walk around town and then dinner on the beautiful fairy tale pinch yourself laid back old town quay. With the doof doof of the nearby bar in my head right now, I'm moved to say Rogoznica rocks.

DINGHY ON BOARD RATHER THAN TRAILED

THAT WOULD BE US THERE!

WALK UP FROM THE ANCHORAGE

NATIONAL PARK ANCHORAGE

STARK FENCELINES

MOTORING SOUTH, MORNING CALM

GEOLOGY LESSON

GEOLOGY FROM AFAR

BILL AND PETE REPAIR RUBBER DINGHY

THE AUTO PILOT'S NAME IS RAY

BILL FIDDLES WITH FURLER FINGS

WELCOME WEWARDS

MED MOORING, REVERSE IN

MAILING POSTCARD TO COOPER THE DALMATION FROM THE DALMATION COAST

DRINKIES BEFORE WALKING THE PLANK TO DINNER

OUR SEAFOOD RESTAURANT CHOICE

WE'RE PARKED JUST BEHIND THAT BIG WHITE THING

KNOW YOUR BORA - 101

OF ANCHORS AND ANCHORAGES

Fumija Bay, Rab to Kosljun, Pag    Friday 9/8/13

Chief weather report downloader and analyst Linda, pronounced strong NW winds in the afternoon with a NE Bora to follow early next morning. With no experience of the holding power of Pave's anchor in the famous wind called the Bora, prudence was in order so we decided to head down the coast straight away to a sheltered anchorage at Kosljun on the island of Pag.

We motor sailed south past desolate, windswept, rocky terrain with a patchy beard of greenery surviving at the water's edge that has managed to dodge the scouring effects of the various winds. Anchoring in 4.8M of water, it was easy enough to swim over and inspect the purchase or otherwise of the anchor. Bill reversed back on the anchor chain while I watched it grab a little more into the sandy bottom. It seemed to grab as good as it was going to. Now we just had to wait.

Kosljun is a small, isolated, quiet little place on a bay. The predominant architecture is harsh boxes with small windows on harsh stony ground with a couple of starter castles. I guess they have to be pretty robust as the weather covers an extreme range here. Bill and I went ashore for a look and realised most of the number plates were Czech. It seemed to be a little Czech holiday enclave clinging to the water with the odd Italian family motorhome convoy. Families sunbathed and swam, taking it easy in the heat by the water while a few men played the car stereo up loud sitting in the full sun outside the single tiny grocery store. Getting a suntan/sunburn is a high priority for Europeans who don't see the sun all the year. The place actually had a certain kind of charm as a fairly hard to get to destination by the water at the end of a dusty road.

We went to bed in calm conditions with no more than a gentle cooling breeze. Things changed a little when the predicted Bora hit around five am. Linda was first up and reported gusts at 25knots with the highest reading being 36 knots when someone was watching the instruments. We are sitting comfortably, albeit dancing on the anchor but it's holding nicely and we won't be going anywhere today now that we have heard the radio forecast of 35-40 knots with 60 knots in the Northern Adriatic. Such are the conditions around here with our introductory lesson on the 'Bora'. The temp now is far more manageable at 28oC as shipboard life settles into 'library period' and 'next destination research' after a late breakfast of bacon, eggs, tomatoes and coffee.

We'll have to wait and see just how long we hole up here or make out for a new location.

MOTOR SAILING WITH A BIT OF BREEZE

A STRIP OF CIVILIZATION WITH WINDSWEPT ROCK BEHIND

CUMULO NIMBUS BUILDUP DURING THE HOT DAY

ANCHORED OFF KOSLJUN. CB BUILD UP BEFORE THE BORA

BOXES ON STONY GROUND FROM THE YACHT

BILL PICKS HIS WAY THROUGH CZECH SUN WORSHIPPERS TO DINGHY

ESSENTIAL SUPPLIES X 4

ER... ANYWAY, THEY SELL BEER

MAKING THE BEST OF THINGS BEFORE THE BORA

THE ISLAND OF RAB

THE NEEDLE ON THE NUDITY METER SPIKED TODAY

We motored down from our overnight anchorage at Mali Plavnik in zero wind. The bays that we passed on the way down the island of Rab were especially inviting because they had trees. This spot here is sheltered from the fierce Bora that can leave the landscape very stunted or denuded in this area. Speaking of which, we anchored near the historic 15th century town of Rab and couldn't help noticing that every boat anchored near us was full of pleasure seekers enjoying the sun and swimming sans costume. The poor old nuddy meter almost bent the needle. You'd love it here Noel.

Turns out this place is even trumpeted in the brochures as a trail blazer in the naturism stakes because in 1936 the English king Edward VIII and his wife took a dip in the all together. I suspect they weren't the first around here.

We had lunch on board, thankyou Linda, and motored in to the marina to fill up with diesel, tie up for free at the public quay til 5.30 and have a bit of a walk around this historic town. While the cobblestone streets, alley ways and church spires were authentically atmospheric it was all a bit oldy worldy tourist trap kitsch. Tourism rules here. The girls went for a bit of dress shopping research but the tourist trap prices didn't appeal. Meanwhile Bill took command to shout him and myself a taste of another sample on the 'Great Beers in the Journey Of Life'.

While Bill disposed of the empties I picked up a free bag of ice from an obliging bar attendant for our G & T sundowners that were waiting for us back at nudist anchorage central. We considered the marina option for overnight but at 70 Euros the free anchorage with the nudists in a nearby pretty location won hands down. On leaving the public quay we were so glad we got in earlier for the diesel because although we had to previously wait for one boat before us there were now four yachts and several stink boats jockeying and bobbing off the fuel jetty in a confined space.

After more delicious swimming I made a small breakthrough when I realised how to control the temp of the outdoor shower on the rear transom duckboard thingy. I'm settling in to this life aquatic.

EVENING, MALI PLAVNIK

MOTORING SOUTH TO RAB

CALM AND HOT

TOP LEVEL NAVIGATION STRATEGY MEETING

CHECKING OUT PRETTY BAYS ON ISLAND OF RAB

OLD TOWN OF RAB. STONE CASTLE, JUMPING CASTLE, SEMI-SUBMERSIBLE. TOURISM TOWN.

STREETS OF RAB

MOTORING BACK OUT TO OUR ANCHORAGE

A BLOKE NEEDS A SWIM AND A COOL DRINK AT THE END OF THE DAY

RAB FROM OUR ANCHORAGE

ANOTHER TOP LEVEL MEETING

WINDING ANNE UP

SETTLING IN TO THE PACE OF THINGS

I hitched into Krk the other day to get petrol because this marina in Punat has eco park status of some sort and no petrol services are allowed. I got a lift by a friendly marina denizen who kindly drove me in to the petrol station, waited and drove me back despite actually heading to a beach the other way.

I'm told the marina is the biggest in Croatia. It certainly is well run, maintained and serviced. Seems a lot of people with boats in the marina pop down for the weekend or few days and don't necessarily go anywhere. The result is quite a bustling place with people hanging out on their boats with the feel of an aquatic caravan park.

After yesterday's outing I did my first 'Med Mooring' back at the marina berth. That is, I reversed all the way in and tied 'stern to' on the dock. It went perfectly, text book fashion. Call it beginner's luck.

We dined at one of the marina restaurants and had our cheapest meal in quite a while. $15 AUD for two for pizza and salad. Cheap when you don't order grog with it. Speaking of which, we bought beer in two litre plastic bottles yesterday like those family sized coke bottles. They cost $3.60 AUD each. Can't complain about the price, tastes good too, thank god for good refrigeration on board.

We bought a Croatian flag at the chandlery and Bill wound Anne up. Up the mast that is, to thread a line to the spreader for our courtesy flag. She looked terribly competant in that fierce Croatian heat.

Off to the shops for provisions today, top up the water, say goodbye to comfy showers and toilets and we'll head south out of here.

GOOD FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

ACTUALLY SAILING THE MED

LIVIN' THE DREAM

Well, we did it. We got out there today for a day sail over to a pretty anchorage and swim spot. We have officially started sailing the med!

We are not setting off down the coast just yet. Linda has an important skype phone conference call and we need reliable internet. We will head off tomorrow, but today, rather than swelter in the marina we headed out with no fixed destination other than find a spot for a swim. The wind came up more than the 5 knots predicted and with 15 knots on our hands we decided to sail close hauled to see what's over there. Over there turned out to be an anchorage in beautiful clear blue water in the lee of the island of Plavnik. It was just lovely. The last time I swam in the sea was The English Channel, Brighton Beach, a bracing experience, but here the water temp was perfect and the visibility fantastic. It was a wooping, yahooing life affirming moment of yes, this is seriously good to be here. We were actually doing it, livin the dream of sailing the Med. Not only that, we were doing it with Linda and Bill, comprehensively experienced sailors, which was the best possible introduction. Perfect fun.

BILL, MECHANICAL GURU

SUNSET, MUST BE 8:20

CELEBRATION OF ARRIVAL AT SWIMMING SPOT

LINDA AND BILL.

IT'S NOT EASY OUT HERE, SOME OF THESE CORKS ARE REALLY DIFFICULT

CHECKING THE LINKAGE. ALL GOOD.

NOT CAMERA SHY, JUST TAKING IPAD PIC

BURLY RUGGED HE MAN SEEN ON DECK

ANNE ON WAY HOME

ISLAND OF PLAVNIK

BYE BYE BERLIN, COME IN CROATIA.

BERLIN 6.30am IN THE RELATIVE COOL OF THE MORNING

Our last full day in Berlin was all about dodging the heat so we loitered in the air conditioning of the Bauhaus museum to pay our respects and had a picnic lunch outside by the canal.  Dinner was at a nearby restaurant expertly chosen by Anne. I also sampled a delicious organic beer on the Great Beer in Life Journey.

 Up at 3:10am for our train/bus trip to the airport for the early flight out to Zagreb. Berlin's public transport works seamlessly. Very impressive. There were a surprising number of people wandering around at 3:45am. All very relaxed. Berlin was expecting 36oC with our destination, Zagreb, equal third highest global temp at 37oC behind Bharain on 38oC and Abu Dhabi on 40oC.

Bus from Zagreb to Krk with a bottleneck out of town as we met all the Germans, Swiss, Poles, French, Austrians and Croatians that had the same idea as us to head to the Adriatic coast for summer.

We arrived at Krk bus station and there they were, Bill, John and Desi waiting in the heat of the day to greet us. It was great to finally arrive, meet up with our friends and step on board Pave at last. Been quite some planning and preparation for this moment and such a pleasure that it has all come together.

My friend Bill's brother John, owns the boat named 'Pave', a 36ft Bavaria and we, that is Bill, Linda, Anne and I plan to sail it down to Greece where Bill and Linda jump on their own boat 'Lati' and Anne and I pootle about on Pave for a while. John has been so generous to allow us to sail his boat. He and his partner Desi have been down here early to ready everything but unfortunately our timing hasn't allowed us to be here earlier to help. Pave is actually moving address to Bulgaria so sailing south is contributing to Pave's eventual relocation.

The weather, lets face it, is oppressively hot at the moment although it could be worse because the humidity is not that high. Keep up the fluids and do things at a languid pace is the rule. Not all that disagreeable really. The boat is very comfy and beautifully maintained and day two today saw us move in with Bill and Linda and bid farewell to John, Desi and Bill's other brother Chris and his partner Nicky as they drove back to Vienna.

NICE ORGANIC NUMBER, BOTH OF THEM!

BERLIN,  BAUHAUS

HOLIDAY TRAFFIC SOUTH OUT OF ZAGREB

CROATIA, A NEW CHAPTER IN THE GREAT BEERS JOURNEY

CHRIS, DESI, JOHN, ANNE, LINDA, NICKY AND BILL ON BOARD 'PAVE' IN KRK, CROATIA

BACK TO THE BOAT AFTER DINNER

LINDA

MY FREE HAT THAT A STALL OWNER GAVE ME!