Thurs 24th August 2013.
Monopoli to Brindisi.
The still, overnight
anchorage at Bari, once we got off the hot quayside, was the best,
most tranquil night's sleep so far. Next morning with just enough
time for shipboard espresso, we motored south on a sea as smooth as a
K-Mart mirror. Fisherman were returning, some rowing all the way
home.
From the glassy
conditions of the morning, the wind picked up and strengthened during
the afternoon to the point that gales and thunderstorms were
predicted and a harbour was sought. That was the only reason we
pulled into Monopoli but what a stroke of luck. Monopoli is a
beautiful laid back old town, jam packed with locals, replete with
castle, cathedral, crypts, polished cobblestones, narrow streets,
ancient quay, fishing port, cafes, restaurants, etc. No grid, no
masterplan. Higgledy piggledy as the centuries would have it. It
generally oozes with charm.
Bill was even in
seventh heaven when he discovered that they make plywood sheet boats
here. Fishing trawlers, some as long as 60ft, were being made in a
similar method to the yacht that Bill built himself. He came back
with a grin from ear to ear.
The weather forced us
to spend two nights in Monopoli but who's complaining? No facilities
but free tie up to the ancient stone quay with nice yachtie
neighbours. Ringside seats to the rustic working fishing town and a
moment's walk to cafe's and restaurants with sensational coffee and
gelati.
Monopoli closes down
for several hours during the heat of the day but at night it goes
off. The squares and narrow streets are packed with people eating and
carousing. At 11.00pm kids are playing while their parents dine. When
we sat down at a restaurant at nine we were one of two tables
occupied. By 10.00pm people were queueing.
In the spirit of
gastronomic adventure, Bill considered for a moment the tempting menu
option of donkey chops but unsure of the local donkey Q.A. chain,
opted for the known safety of pizza.
There was a free
concert by a student folk/rock/gypsy/I'm too out of touch to
categorise band, which was lots of fun. Something like Woodford does
Monopoli. The crowd loved 'em. In another piazza there was an outdoor
play with the stunning old town backdrop. It was, as they say, an
enchanting little town.
We cast off from the
shelter of Monopoli after two nights, bound for Greece across the
Adriatic. After five hours of adventurous sailing down the coast of
Italy with 20 knots of wind behind us in a following sea we changed
plans to fit the circumstances and steepening sea. We pulled in to
Brindisi marina and managed another med mooring reversing caper in a
good breeze. No one was more happy with the decision than Anne. I
hope she isn't too scarred from the experience of her first big sea.
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| BARI FROM OUR ANCHORAGE |
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| HARBOUR ENTRANCE FROM OUR ANCHORAGE |
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| BYE BYE BARI BYE BYE |
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| MORNING CALM |
 |
| FINISHED THAT ONE |
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| SATELLITE WIFI WEATHER DOWNLOAD |
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| BILL READS, RAY STEERS |
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| MONOPOLI. PAVE, BILL, ANNE BEFORE OTHER YACHTIES ARRIVED |
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| WIFI IN THE SQUARE |
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| 'PAVE' MONOPOLI HARBOUR |
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| MOVING HOUSE? JUST GET IT TO THE WINDOW |
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| PROVISIONS |
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| WIND AND SEAS PICKING UP |
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| ANNE HAPPY IN BRINDISI HARBOUR! |
