WHERE ARE WE ANNE?: DONKEY CHOPS ANYONE?

Thurs 24th August 2013. Monopoli to Brindisi.

The still, overnight anchorage at Bari, once we got off the hot quayside, was the best, most tranquil night's sleep so far. Next morning with just enough time for shipboard espresso, we motored south on a sea as smooth as a K-Mart mirror. Fisherman were returning, some rowing all the way home.

From the glassy conditions of the morning, the wind picked up and strengthened during the afternoon to the point that gales and thunderstorms were predicted and a harbour was sought. That was the only reason we pulled into Monopoli but what a stroke of luck. Monopoli is a beautiful laid back old town, jam packed with locals, replete with castle, cathedral, crypts, polished cobblestones, narrow streets, ancient quay, fishing port, cafes, restaurants, etc. No grid, no masterplan. Higgledy piggledy as the centuries would have it. It generally oozes with charm.

Bill was even in seventh heaven when he discovered that they make plywood sheet boats here. Fishing trawlers, some as long as 60ft, were being made in a similar method to the yacht that Bill built himself. He came back with a grin from ear to ear.

The weather forced us to spend two nights in Monopoli but who's complaining? No facilities but free tie up to the ancient stone quay with nice yachtie neighbours. Ringside seats to the rustic working fishing town and a moment's walk to cafe's and restaurants with sensational coffee and gelati.

Monopoli closes down for several hours during the heat of the day but at night it goes off. The squares and narrow streets are packed with people eating and carousing. At 11.00pm kids are playing while their parents dine. When we sat down at a restaurant at nine we were one of two tables occupied. By 10.00pm people were queueing.

In the spirit of gastronomic adventure, Bill considered for a moment the tempting menu option of donkey chops but unsure of the local donkey Q.A. chain, opted for the known safety of pizza.

There was a free concert by a student folk/rock/gypsy/I'm too out of touch to categorise band, which was lots of fun. Something like Woodford does Monopoli. The crowd loved 'em. In another piazza there was an outdoor play with the stunning old town backdrop. It was, as they say, an enchanting little town.

We cast off from the shelter of Monopoli after two nights, bound for Greece across the Adriatic. After five hours of adventurous sailing down the coast of Italy with 20 knots of wind behind us in a following sea we changed plans to fit the circumstances and steepening sea. We pulled in to Brindisi marina and managed another med mooring reversing caper in a good breeze. No one was more happy with the decision than Anne. I hope she isn't too scarred from the experience of her first big sea.