WHERE ARE WE ANNE?: MESSOLONGHI TERMINUS, ALL CHANGE HERE

ANNE TAKES A MASTERCLASS

ITHACA TO MESSOLONGHI

Tuesday 27th AUGUST 2013

From the island of Ithaca we motor/sailed in one day to Messolonghi.

A pleasant motor sail with the odd ferry alert, some rugged islands, a few dolphins and a seal. Yes, a single solitary seal just taking it easy. It was a Mediterranean monk seal. At some 450–510 remaining individuals, it is one of the most endangered mammals in the world.

Messolonghi is a one off experience. It's name came from the combination of two Italian words, MEZZO and LAGHI which means "in the middle of lakes". It is on the edge of a lagoon and the entry up the fairly shallow channel was like puttering up through Jacob's Well, a bit of Coochie mudlo, a touch of Russell island and some other Moreton Bay lowlands only with heaps more Eucalyptus trees. The architecture felt familiar, contemporary shack to just plain shack, often on stilts. Every shack was a study. Some even had the regulation rusting Datsun 120Y outside, just like Australia. The odd Greek flag was the only give away.

Messolonghi, for Bill and Linda meant one thing above all. Their precious, renovated, resuscitated, redoubtable Lati. The 31ft Kim Holman that Bill bought on ebay in the U.S. Virgin Islands for a song. This is where they got off Pave the fibreglass yacht and were reunited with their baby, the all mahogany, old fashioned timber charisma yacht.

For Anne and myself it also meant the end of the line on Pave. In a couple of days, Pave was due to be delivered to it's new home in Bulgaria by John the owner and a couple of skippers. The route is prone to the headwinds of the Meltemi and not necessarily a comfortable trip. They plan to do 700 miles in seven days non stop.

We were invited to join them but the chance of punching in to headwinds for days without stopping was not an appealing one. We chose to say goodbye to Pave in Messolonghi after four weeks of life and adventures on board with Bill and Linda. It's been an incredible time with so many new learning experiences in the company of a couple of expert seasoned sailors. We couldn't have wished for a better introduction to sailing and are indebted to John, Bill and Linda for creating the opportunity, not to mention the pure fun of travel in the Med.

Messolonghi marina is not on most people's must see hit list, it's hot and dusty with people noisily working on their boats. It's an unfinished masterpiece. Very unfinished. It was opened in 2009, built through the Greek Tragedy of the GFC. Rusting steel sticks out on top of the first floor ready for the second floor that never turned up. The marble steps to the office did manage to get laid but that was it.

I still like Messolonghi though. It's a holiday destination for the Greeks and has it's own appeal. After a few days there we worked out shortest routes, supermarkets, restaurants, weather, winds and wifi. Things close during the heat of the day but by eleven p.m. everyone, even grandma and grandad is out promenading or meeting for a drink. You can't get a meal anywhere on the square, it's drinks only and packed.

We cleaned up Pave inside and out and got everything ship shape ready for handing back to John. In the meantime Campbell and Annette offered to have us on their boat to continue to Athens through the Gulf of Patras. We readily accepted their very kind offer, moved on board Annecam and then buddy sailed with Linda and Bill down to the island of Trizonia.